Boldly Go Solo

In my last post, my Japanophile friend Bob talked about some of his
favorite places to visit in his favorite country. In this post, he talks more
about traveling solo, why he loves Japan and the types of places he goes to eat and sleep when he
visits.

What so intrigues you about Japan?

The mix of modern and traditional cultures, the delicious food, great customer
service, and the discovery potential.  Japan has all of the modern
conveniences imaginable, but also ancient traditions and architecture. 

Tokyo, for example, not
only contains bustling neighborhoods with bright neon lights, but also serene
shrines and temples and beautiful gardens.  However, I don't want to give
too much away because the best part of being in Japan is making your own
discoveries.

When did you first go to Japan?

It was about 15 years ago when a friend was working there as an English
teacher.  He took me on a wonderful tour of Kyoto,
which contains the flavor of old Japan.  That first visit to Kyoto made a lasting
impression.

Have you always set out solo or have you gone on trips to Japan with
friends before? What's your preference?

I've done both.  The first time, I met some friends in Japan who had come from their home in Hong Kong.  These days, I usually spend about half
of my time traveling around on my own and the other half with Japanese friends
I met here in the U.S. who
have moved back to Japan.

What do you do when you go? How do you travel and where do you sleep?

I spend most of my time in Tokyo, where my friends live, but always take a trip
somewhere outside of Tokyo using the Japan Rail pass, which is a real
bargain.  For about $320, you can go anywhere in the country for a week on
the JR rail system, including the bullet trains, except for the very fastest
one, the Nozomi.  However, you need to buy the pass in the U.S. Use the English-language Web site for the Japan Rail schedule. 

I mostly stay at western-style hotels, which you can find at fairly reasonable
prices on Expedia or Priceline, but also try to stay at traditional Japanese
inns called ryokan. 

This is a real Japanese experience.  You
typically sleep on the floor on a futon and delicious meals are delivered to
your room.  Many ryokan also have hot springs baths, such as those located near Mt. Fuji.   

Not all
Japanese inns accept reservations for single guests, but you can find ones that do and make reservations in English. Many hot springs inns have what they call "family baths," which means
rather than soaking in the hot springs with others, which is the custom in
Japan, you can reserve a bath for your exclusive use.

On the zanier side, throughout Japan,
you can find what are called "love hotels," where you can stay in a
room by the hour (the "rest" rate) or by the night (the "stay"
rate).  Even if you don't stay there–and it's not recommended for
singles–it can be fun to look at the photos of the creatively decorated rooms
that are posted in the hotel lobbies.  

How about eating?

A relatively cheap way to
eat in Japan
is to buy bentos, which are boxed meals usually containing rice and fish meals, and
are sold at most convenience stores and train stations. 

You can also have
quick and cheap bowls of soup at shops throughout Japan.  In some shops,
ordering soup is done by using a vending machine that displays pictures of
different types of soup and dispenses a ticket, which you provide to the
staff.

One of my favorite types of food is okonomiyaki, which is a
Japanese pancake/omelet stuffed with cabbage and a variety of vegetable and
meat ingredients, topped with a sweet sauce.  You can find okonomiyaki
shops everywhere in Japan, including some where you make your own at your
hotplate table for less than $10. 

When is the best time to
visit Japan?

I think the spring and fall are the best times to go to Japan. 
Unless you have bad allergies, you can enjoy beautiful cherry blossoms in the
spring, and in the fall, you can appreciate bright fall colors, especially in
the Kyoto
area.  Summer is best avoided in my opinion unless you're going to the
northern part of Japan, such
as Sapporo. 
June is the rainy season and July and August are very hot and humid.

 
What would you recommend to someone who's never been to Japan and plans to go
on his/her own?

The JR pass is highly recommended.  The pass pays for itself with just one
round trip between Tokyo to Kyoto.  There are plenty of organized
tours that you can take provided by companies such as JTB Sunrise
Tours, but don't be afraid to explore on your own. 

When taking a taxi,
it’s good to keep in mind that the back doors open automatically; they are
controlled by the driver.  Another great
thing about Japan: 
no tipping!  And don't forget to take off your shoes in traditional places
like inns or temples.

Other things to do in Japan solo.

Offbeat things to do in Japan.

Photos by Bob:

1. Room in a ryokan

2. "Love" hotel, boat motif.

3. Okonomiyaki

Woodblock prints by Katsushika Hokusai: From the Thirty-six views of Mt. Fuji series.