The Pyramids at Giza, the Sphinx and the Nile are generally what come to mind when people imagine Egypt. Fewer people know much about the temples at Abydos, Dendara, Edfu and Kom Ombo, to name a few of the ancient sites. 

Egypt seems a relatively safe place to visit solo – due to high security and a major police presence -but not necessarily an easy one. Vendors are aggressive and men likely will stare at women on the streets who aren't dressed modestly.

Wall relief at Abydos
Few temples are labeled well, so if you go alone, you would benefit from hiring an English-speaking guide or getting a very detailed book about what you're seeing. The same is true of much of the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. It was handy to have our guide explaining what we were seeing and its importance to Egyptian life and culture.2009 Egypt 3 008

On the other hand, the Luxor Museum and the Mummification Museum in Luxor, were well labeled and interesting and you could do those on your own easily. 

But now that I know the lay of the land at, for example, Kom Ombo, I could see how it would be easy to book your own Nile cruise, hop onto a horse and buggy at the dock where the carriages pile up waiting for tourists, and head for the temple.

Once there, you could hang around at the entrance for an English-speaking tour group to happen by, and tag along listening to the narration. You could do that at Luxor's temples as well.

Or you could go on a package deal. The upside of my bus tour was ease in getting around the country and into the sights and not having to figure out where everything was. It was all arranged.

The down side was always traveling in a crowd and not having enough time at some of the places we visited.

But it seems that no matter what, at all the popular sites in Egypt, you will not have the place to yourself. People spill out of tour buses, whether you make your way alone or not.

The same is not true at places like Sakkara, Dendara and Abydos, where we were practically alone, thankfully. But those places are tougher to get to. They're not a taxi ride away from Cairo or a hansom cab trip from a dock.

Your choice. Solo on your own, or solo with a tour. You know what's best for you.

Meanwhile, there are ways to meet the people, even when with a tour. In Luxor, I made "friends" with a shopkeeper selling dates and hibiscus blossoms (for tea). I'd seen the bags of dates elsewhere, but they seemed, well, dirty. Dates, peanuts and hibiscus leaves-Luxor, Egypt-Ellen Perlman (1104 x 828)

Turns out the dried dates need to be washed off and then soaked in water for half hour to "freshen" them. I actually prefer them dry and chewy, but the Egyptians seem to like them soft.

In any case, I walked off with one bag of hibiscus and one bag of dates, for a couple of dollars total. And some photos of me with the shopkeeper. A deal. In many ways.

Photos above, by Ellen Perlman: Wall relief at Abydos, Egypt. Colossi of Memnon, Valley of the Kings, Egypt. Hibiscus, peanuts and dates, Luxor shop.

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9 responses to “Egypt: Go solo or go solo with a tour?”

  1. www.bydianedaniel.com Avatar

    Safe except for that matter of a little bomb explosion at a Cairo market yesterday, that killed a French tourist and injured more than 20 others, mostly foreign tourists. I’m glad you’re back safely, Ellen. I’m one to forge ahead and go just about anywhere (OK, not war zones), but that really gave me pause yesterday.
    GREAT photos!

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  2. Ellen Perlman Avatar

    Yikes! I hadn’t read that when I wrote this and honestly? I’m the type that might have canceled my trip upon reading that. It’s a shame that this world contains so many crazies. The idea of them made me think twice, three times, four times before embarking on this Egypt trip.
    And my friends are of two types – one type that says the odds of me being a victim of terrorism are miniscule. The other that offers to pay me to cancel my trip. In fact, two of my friends did exactly that before I went on this trip to Egypt. (If I’d been willing to take their money, it would have cost me nothing to cancel! But of course, I wouldn’t have.) More on this in a future post.
    So again, you know your comfort zone and will act accordingly.

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  3. Ellen Perlman Avatar

    One other detail. Before leaving for Egypt, I went to the Website of the U.S. State Department to see if there were any travel advisories. According to the history there, bombs went off in the Cairo market in both 2005 and 2006. (Now we can add 2009.)
    I knew that before going and I knew Palestinian sympathizers in Egypt were quite unhappy with their government’s stance on the Israeli bombing of the Gaza Strip just a few weeks earlier. And that at some point, that would lead to a “problem” in Egypt of some sort. I was sure of it.
    It took me awhile to reach a comfort zone but I decided, still, to continue on the trip. Sadly, it’s the nature of travel today to plot, along with the terrorists, and determine whether you feel safe or not. Second guess, and all. It’s pretty illogical to think you can outsmart someone who wants to harm.
    I also went to Madrid, post-subway bombing and to London, post-IRA bombing. What can you do? You make your choices and hope for the best.

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  4. Wayne Avatar

    these pics were great. I personally liked ‘rowers with scarves’

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  5. Ellen Avatar

    I think you’re joshin’ me Wayne. In any case, those were quick captions. I went through trying to find photos to post out of the 1500+ and…well…time for thoughtful captions did not exist.
    Soon, though.
    I also left out a lot of photos – such as the bowling alley on the Nile and Gold’s Gym on the Nile.

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  6. Georgia Travel Avatar

    Very good travel blog and quality content, thanks for sharing,
    greetings from http://www.exotour.ge

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  7. Ellen Avatar

    Thanks Georgia Travel! I appreciate your kind words.
    Ellen

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  8. Rebecca Avatar
    Rebecca

    Thanks for this post. I’m actually debating whether to go solo or go w/ a tour group. My biggest hinderance is money. Solo would cost me $1800 whereas with a tour group it would cost $3200 for the same things (except they have upgraded 4-star lodging and I’d stay in hostels). However, I am female and I’ve been doing a lot of research. All of the restrictions on women have made me extremely anxious (clothing, no looking men in the eyes- how the hell do you buy things at a market then?!) about doing it alone. I’m still on the fence, any thoughts would be appreciated.

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  9. Ellen Avatar

    Hi Rebecca,
    I agree Egypt is more difficult than some other places for women traveling alone. But from my experience, I didn’t have a problem at markets. The vendors at tourist locations are plenty used to women in Western clothing looking them in the eyes and negotiating prices.
    If I were walking around on my own in places away from tourist areas, I might consider wearing a head scarf, just to avoid attention. I’m not saying you have to.
    I’m saying if I went back and planned to walk alone, I think it would act as a deterrent to certain types of men.
    Definitely think about wearing modest clothing. I was walking around an American friend who wore a sleeveless shirt and a shortish skirt and she wasn’t looked upon very kindly but some men in Luxor, who called some things out to her.
    But all in all, I found shopkeepers to be friendly, if a bit overzealous sometimes, in pushing their wares.
    E

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