• Women traveling alone in Europe likely will get stared at, groped and talked to by foreign men. But guess what? So will women traveling with others. I know this from nutty, annoying experience. So don't let that be the thing that prevents you, if you're female, from traveling solo. Santorini

    At reidsguides.com there's a funny post called "Ciao, Bella, Americana Girl," where Reid explains what to expect from "Italian Romeo wannabes to overly gallant Frenchmen to icky Greek shopkeeps." Was he with me in Europe when I was in my 20's and 30's? Because, check, check and check on those Italians, Frenchmen and Greeks.

    In Italy I traveled with my friend Adele. In France I was on my own. In Greece I was with a boyfriend. And in each place, I ran into men behaving badly.

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  • Today's post is brought to you by "The Bathroom Diaries." This is one down-to-earth Web site on the essentials of waste, and the receptacles that receive it. Fun, funny and highly useful if you're the type that plans in advance. And you really, really want a clean and comfortable place to go.

    Its contributors have scoured the globe to report back on the toilet scene around the world. They give Golden Plunger awards to the world's best bathroom. And offer "true tales of tawdry toilets." Really, this site is a gas.Toilet, Northern Ireland-Ellen Perlman

    If toilet talk is not your thing, the time to stop reading is now!

    A personal admission: I can get obsessed with toilets/bathrooms. Also known as the loo, the can, the head, the latrine, the throne, the privy, the W.C., the powder room the lavatory (deep breath here – unless you're actually in or on one), the washroom, the chamber pot, the john, the bathroom, the restroom, the lavatory, the commode. Chime in if you've got other faves.

    When in Thailand, I was faced with the prospect of the squat toilet. (Upon which "downhill skiers have the clear advantage," according to the site.)

    The Thai toilets were mostly clean and worked quite well. But via a bowl and a tank of water on the side that you used to "flush" with. Scoop, pour, scoop, pour, scoop, pour. Voila! Flushed.

    But then there was the issue of the foot rests. The porcelain square on the ground usually had a place marked for your feet. What was not marked was which direction you were supposed to stand. I mean, squat.

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  • Last week, a friend told me that, following my example, she decided to go solo on a cruise to the Bahamas. How was it? "The first day was crushingly lonely." Ouch. The trip was only three days. That means a third of it was lousy.

    I asked for more details. It turns out she was seated at a table by herself. I've never been on a cruise but I always thought that Captain Stubing, or whoever the people in charge are, watched out for things like that. Made sure people were comfortable. I guess not.

    After thinking more about her experience I've come up with a few thoughts about why she might have been lonely and how, perhaps, it could have been avoided.

    1. Know thyself

    What was she thinking about when she signed up? Did she assume it would be a really sociable place and she'd meet a lot of people? Was she looking for single men? Point being, were her expectations too high? Would someone else have been happy just exploring the ship and sitting by the pool with a book on that first day? Going to the casino? Going to the gym, if they had one?

    2. Know thy vacation choice

    Was a large ship with a lot of people the best choice? The larger the group in general, the more people will break down into families or cliques. Singletons may get lost. That might not matter to some. But it will be agonizing to others. (see # 1)

    In a small group tour, on the other hand, everyone will talk to everyone. If not, there is always a guide who will see you're not having fun and hopefully scoop you up and put you under her wing. Guides are paid to be friendly.

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  • Entrance to Melvin Hazen Trib-Ellen Perlman Last weekend I did a 9-mile hike in the woods, along a creek for much of the way. I heard woodpeckers and the rustle of small four legged creatures scurrying away at the sound of footfalls. And the entire hike was in Washington, D.C.

    What a lot of people don't realize about the nation's capital is that a stone's throw from the marble and granite monuments is enough park to get lost in. It's called Rock Creek Park. This hike started from a Metro station, where the Capital Hiking Club met up on a Saturday morning. Lots of people arrived alone.

    After a two-block walk north on Connecticut Avenue, a major D.C. artery, we took a right turn onto a dirt path toward the Melvin Hazen Tributary of Rock Creek. The trail descended steeply and soon we were completely surrounded by tall trees. 

    That didn't last the whole way but we were on dirt trails for most of the hike. Part of the time we were close to a two-lane road that runs through the park, one that is closed to cars on weekends. We could see and hear the bikers, joggers, walkers and inline skaters. I'm often one of them on weekends.

    At one point, I ended up talking with the woman behind me, Gretchen, originally from Belgium. That's what happens on these group things. People come alone but connect with whoever's hiking near them.

    Connecticut Ave-Ellen Perlman

    The night before, my friend and I joined the same hiking club for its monthly moonlight walk on the C&O Canal in Maryland, just outside the district. It was a beautiful night so a large crowd showed up. We trekked two miles to Great Falls. As night fell, the bright, nearly full moon appeared between tree branches. Spectacular. The group plans its hike for the Friday closest to the full moon.

    We spent some time gazing at moonlight on the falls, something I'd not experienced at Great Falls before. I usually see the falls in sharp sunlight.

    Back at the gravel parking area some people headed for their cars but a bunch of us crossed the road to the Old Angler's Inn. Many people who hadn't know one another before sat at outside tables chatting.

    You don't have to be a member of the Capital Hiking Club to go on one of their hikes. You just show up. The day hike cost $2. The moonlight hike was free.

    Washington has many clubs like this – hiking, biking, sailing and more – where you can just show up for the day and find company. Usually for free, or a nominal fee. I'll write about others from time to time.

    Photos: Ellen Perlman

    1. The view East from Connecticut Avenue north of Cleveland Park. Deep woods.The sign says, "Foot Trail No Horses." Yes, there also are horses and a stable in Rock Creek Park, Washington, DC!

    2. The view South from steps away. The end of rush hour on Connecticut Avenue. Forested parkland so close to the urban crush.

  • 800px-Guadalajara_México_Rotonda_Hombres_Jalicienses_Ilustres_noche I just signed up to go to Guadalajara, Mexico, in October for the annual conference of my travel writers' organization. Locals know Guadalajara as the "City of the Roses," or the "Pearl of the West."

    Birth place of mariachi and tequila. Year-round temperature of about 75 degrees. Suena estupendo! (sounds great)

    I've decided to go a week early and take a Spanish language immersion week. Now I have a choice. I can play it "safe" and go with the travel writers group. Or I can do it independently, choosing a school and letting the school place me with a Mexican family.

    I'm torn. SATW, the Society of American Travel Writers, is offering a pre-convention package that includes nights in a nice hotel and dinners with host families. Everything would be planned for me. It would be so easy and comfortable.

    But I have visions of a bunch of Americans returning to the hotel at night and reverting to English. Being herded around and meeting in a lobby for a bus. Perhaps people complaining (as some people in this group are wont to do) about the quality of the lessons.

    The other choice requires a fair amount of work. By me. Find a school. Find a way from the airport. Compare what programs offer and select the most appealing.

    I've Googled Guadalajara Spanish schools and have come up with three that look good. I've toyed with the idea of going to a school in Puerta Vallarta a couple of hours away, to be near the beach in October. The town sticks in my head from episodes of "The Love Boat." Then again, that gives me the vision that it is full of turistas.

    But I digress. The point is, there's lots to think about and plan. Some schools have set programs. In others you can choose your number of hours. Some offer salsa lessons or cooking lessons during your week. One even offers guitar lessons – if you bring a guitar.

    Some of the options: IMAC Spanish Language Programs. Or the Guadalajara Language Center in Guadalajara. Or the Guadalajara Language Center in Tlaquepaque, 20 minutes outside of Guadalajara, an artisans community, famous for pottery and blown glass.

    And a town that has a fun name to write and say. (I'm guessing it's pronounced tlah-kay-PAH-kay. I'd never seen the "tl" combo at the beginning of a Spanish word. But I just looked in my Spanish-English dictionary and there's one other such Spanish word. Tlapaleria. The Spanish word for hardware store. But only in Mexico.)

    Hm, I'm digressing again. But I'm already getting excited about learning and practicing more Spanish. Still, decisions, decisions.

    This is where that element of the unknown comes into solo travel. What to do? Where to go? How to get there? All on my own.

    I admit, it's a little scary. Solo travel always is for me. Yes, there's always a pinch of fear in striking out alone, going some place I've never been, making my way around. (see my blog category on "fear and some loathing!)

    Sometimes I wonder why I'm put myself through this. The answer is: I want to do what I want to do the way I want to do it. Without negotiating with anyone else. Without being in a herd of Americans.

    This is what provides the exhilaration in the end. Arriving at a place and finding my way. Making that place familiar and wondering what I was ever concerned about.

    And in this case, learning Spanish. And staying with a family, probably in basic accommodations, instead of checking in to a luxury hotel. Some of my friends think this is nuts, giving up the luxury option.

    I did this before, in Paris, in my 20's and wrote about it in one of my first posts on this blog. It was fantastic becoming a citizen of the 17th arrondissement for a month, having a temporary family and cracking the code of French. Even if it meant sleeping in a twin bed and having a roommate.

    I'm excited to try again. In Spanish. In Mexico. For a week. In three months. And you'll hear all about it here.

    Photo: Rotunda in Guadalajara. Carlos E. Sainz

  • Sphinx and Pyramid, Giza Before going to Egypt, my visions of the country didn't extend much beyond the pyramids, the Sphinx and Hosni Mubarek.

    But two of the strongest memories I have now, in addition to those iconic pyramids, are of the many horses and buggies that fill city streets, and the public call to prayer, or the "drone of proclaimed faith," as a Washington Post article called it, that occurs five times a day in Cairo, emanating from mosques' loudspeakers around the city.

    When I first heard that drone one evening early in the trip, I was perplexed. Was someone playing the radio too loudly in the hotel room next door? I walked onto the balcony, overlooking the Nile, and eventually surmised the sound was coming from everywhere. All around the city. Still, I wasn't sure what it was. And I certainly couldn't understand the Arabic to figure it out.

    Eventually I learned the meaning behind the chanting sound. The signal to Orthodox Sunni Muslims that it's time for prayer. You can tell the devout Muslims on the street by the prayer mark on their foreheads. From touching their heads to the ground so often. It's literally a scar.

    I was always intrigued by the sound when I heard it. It would start up and I would wonder what that noise was. Then it would hit me. Oh right, it's time for prayer. If I were near a mosque, I'd see men walking from all directions towards its doors.

    I wanted to record the sound but it took forever to finally do so. Since I couldn't predict when the calls would happen or know where I'd be, I seldom had a recording device at the ready. But finally, in Luxor, I managed to capture it.

    Well, actually, I captured two sounds. The other is of a horse clopping. The horse that was pulling the carriage I was riding in with my new-found friend Ann. (We met at the airport on the first day of our organized trip and discovered both of us had arrived solo.) We'd taken a long walk into town and toured the Luxor Museum and decided to give our legs a rest on the way back.

    Besides, we'd seen these horses and buggies everywhere and wanted, finally, to hop on board. (Little did I know how hard that seat would be, despite the cushion.)

    Horses and buggies at dock, Edfu The sight of the carriages was most intriguing at Edfu, where they came from all directions to greet the early arrival of Nile cruise ships about to unload. We could see from our ship as the carriages streamed in from every street possible.

    Like New York taxi drivers, I'm sure the carriage drivers have to make their "nut" each day, not for gas in this case, but for feed for their horses. And upkeep of the buggies.

    The funniest thing about our carriage ride was that our driver Mohamed, within a minute of picking us up, pulled over to a food cart to buy himself some sweets. Efficient service was not of the essence, apparently. Getting the fare was.

    He was vaguely apologetic about it. Asked us if we wanted anything. It was charming in its way, after the initial "what the heck?"  He was just a hungry, young guy who didn't want to take a break while going after customers. A young guy with a horse named Cinderella, trying to earn a living.

    Photos and video: Ellen Perlman. The Sphinx. The main drag in Luxor. Street by the dock in Edfu.

     

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  • Hanging bike, Amsterdam-Ellen Perlman_2 Travel + Leisure's July issue describes the "world's top biking cities" Three are in the U.S.: Minneapolis, Portland (Oregon) and Seattle.

    The others are Amsterdam (of course), Bogota (who knew?), Copenhagen, Montreal, Munich, Paris and Perth.

    The site offers a slide show of the various cities. There's a great photo of a four-story parking structure in Amsterdam filled completely with bikes.

    The write-ups give a nice little description of why the writers liked these particular biking cities. Even better for the solo traveler, they give information about where to rent a bike.Bikes in the Netherlands-Ellen Perlman

    Here's a tip they didn't mention: If you don't want to bicycle alone, check out the Adventure Cycling Association's "companions wanted" page. Perhaps you can connect with someone who wants to bike where you do.

    In Copenhagen, the "bycyklen" are free with a refunded coin deposit. The city so supports cyclists that a city agency maintains the huge fleet available to tourists. The bike Web site claims its city bikes are world famous. "When you tour the city you notice, that especially tourists love riding the city bikes."

    Bike in Holland-Ellen Perlman One of the more unusual experiences I had, while in the Netherlands, was renting a bike as a means of transportation for a several-day excursion. My friend and I (this was not a solo trip) would throw our bikes onto trains and park them in front of hotels.

    Because they were rentals, they weren't anything fancy but who needs a lot of gears in a flat country? One night we pedaled several miles from our hotel to a nice restaurant with white tablecloths. We dined on seafood and drank wine by the sea as the sun set. And felt like we earned our food because of the pre-meal exercise.

    Minor problem with biking to dinner? Who wants to get back on that bike on a full stomach? Lesson learned. Not that I wouldn't do the activity again. But I would pencil into the plan some post-meal digesting time.

    And get home before dark if the ride home is through the woods…as ours was. Especially if I were alone.

    Photos: Ellen Perlman. The Netherlands.

  • Doing things alone is the best way to develop confidence in yourself, your skills and your judgment. So says, a self-described life coach and Gen Y expert in a post on tips for transforming during the 20's. Or, really, during any stage of life where you are undergoing major changes.

    But Christine Hassler's focus is on young adults. She says they often "travel in packs or yearn for a permanent 'plus one.' " She suggests they learn how to be their own companions by going to a movie or dinner alone, "or best yet, travel alone. Be open to discovery."

    Ellen at Exeter I was 19 when I headed off to the University of Exeter, England, for my junior year abroad. It was not as part of a university program. I had applied independently to the university and I headed off on an airplane, alone, landing in London's Gatwick Airport.

    I'd sent a duffel bag of clothes for the year as cargo. When I inquired at the airport where to find it, someone directed me in such a way that I ended up on an airport road in the cargo/warehouse-y area of the airport. Lost. Confused.

    I sat down on the curb with the luggage I'd flown with. And cried. Well, that didn't solve much. When I finished crying, I got up and kept going.

    Eventually I was reconnected with my duffel. Signed some papers to have it trucked West to Exeter, a nice city in Southwestern England with a beautiful old cathedral. Personal storm over, and back in the airport once again, I started marveling at the differences of British English.

    "Way out" for exit reminded me of a Flintstones cartoon. A woman helping me find my train into London said "shed-jool" instead of schedule.  Except the train schedule is actually called a timetable.

    I got on a train (or was it a bus?) to London to make my way to my cousin's place where I was going to stay the night – he was also in England for his junior year – and was amazed to see sheep in the fields right outside the airport. What a crazy place this England was!

    Long story short – things worked out really and I ended up feeling strong and in command. I'd made the whole year happen and here I was! Despite all the glitches.Friends, Exeter

    The year itself was one of the best ever. I made new friends, mostly English, but also Indian, Malaysian, Swiss, French. Learned a new culture. Learned to eat fool and brussel sprouts and Cornish pasties and drink tea with milk in it. Learned what plimsoles and jacket potatoes and chokkie bikkies were. Played on the university volleyball team and traveled the country with those new friends.

    Picked up a British accent. Sort of. (The Brits could see right through it. But when I returned home, my family and friends said I sounded like Mary Poppins.)

    That was the last of my solo travel for awhile. But when I started running out of people to travel with years later, I swallowed hard and started up again. I went on a river rafting trip in Utah, as I wrote in my first couple of posts on this blog.

    With each trip I take, or solo adventure I do – even if it's just one night of eating out alone during a business trip – it gets easier. Truly.

    Photos: 1. Me in front of my dorm at Exeter University many, many years ago! 2. New British friends from my dorm, being 19 and silly.

  • Here's a fun read on solo travel from the Mail Online, a British Web site. The writer rounds up "the best" (that's subjective, though, isn't it?) "holidays for solo travellers." That is, the "best vacations for solo travelers" in American English (just taking the mickey, that is, kidding the British friend who gave me the heads up on this article).Buddha 1, Thailand

    Not all of the trips will make sense for Americans because they're based on British pounds and are geared to travelers starting in England. Nevermind. The article is a good basis for ideas and a reaffirmation that going solo can work out well for all types of travelers, including those who leave spouse and children behind.

    Besides, how often do you hear about people vacationing in the Isles of Scilly, off the Southwestern tip of Great Britain, or hiking the Atlas Mountains in Morocco? It's a fun cultural experience for Americans and other non-Brits just to read the article.

    I also like sharing articles like these so I can have other people say what I've been saying all along: that things often work out great when you take the risk of traveling solo.

    In the article, a 29-year-old court reporter went snowboarding on her own in the Canadian Rockies because she was "fresh out of a relationship" and had no desire to go on a singles tour. " I thought it would be all couples, but there were only a few. It was really good fun and very bonding."

    A 46-year-old divorcee who went to a health sanctuary in Thailand: "At the end of my stay there were six of us eating together – a German headhunter, New York museum curator, Italian lawyer, Greek fund manager and a lecturer."

    I bet she stays in touch with at least one or two of these new-found friends.

    Photo: Ellen Perlman. Thai buddha.

  • Angel Falls When I wrote about the top 10 train rides last week, a reader commented how beautiful the photo of Norway was (no, it wasn't mine.) Funny, then, to find on Twitter a link to the 10 highest waterfalls.

    Because I started scrolling through and whaddaya know? Surprise, surprise, five out of the 10 highest waterfalls are in Norway.

    It seems with all these travel lists I post, I end up having been to one or two places but no more. I'm at least glad I experience that many of the 10 best this and that.

    The highest waterfall in the world, according to the site, is Angel Falls in Venezuela. Named for a guy who, oops, nose-dived into them, and survived, as opposed to something to do with the heavens.

    The sad story for me about Angel Falls is that I was traveling through Venezuela with a boyfriend years ago and we couldn't fit in everything we wanted to do. The Angel Falls trip would have taken several days and we just didn't have the time.

    Hm, maybe I should have gone solo…and set the proper priorities! But that's water under the bridge now. Lots and lots of water.

    Photo: Benedict.adams care of wikimedia